St Andrew, Bywell

Bywell was once a thriving market town beside the Tyne, though little now remains except the castle, a mediaeval market cross, the Hall, and two churches dating from Saxon times. Records show that other Northumbrian sites had multiple churches, but only at Bywell do both still survive. Less than 100 metres apart, they are reached down a cul-de-sac and, with their graveyards and the park nearby, make an idyllic and tranquil spot. The tall tower of St Andrew’s is a magnificent example of Saxon building. Dating from about 850, it has massive walls 5 metres thick, clearly intended for defence. But the tower is much more than a defensive structure. It is built from a lovely mixture of cream, yellow, brown and even red sandstone and has the small rounded windows characteristic of the time. The body of the church dates from the 13th century and was considerably enlarged and restored in 1871. Most of the interior dates from this Victorian restoration, including the mosaic floor of the sanctuary and the glittering reredos. There is very fine Victorian stained glass, some by the notable Victorian designer William Wailes, who is buried at the other Bywell church, St Peter’s. Inside the church, and in some places set into the outside walls, are magnificent early mediaeval grave slabs. They have lovely bold carving, with emblems denoting the status of the person they commemorate swords, shields, a hunting horn, shears and a book.